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 Replies: 9 / Views: 601 |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19521 Posts |
I posted this elsewhere but it seems most appropriate here. I hope someone finds it useful: I have a specific naming convention for my coin photos so they do not duplicate. If you don't organize, your life will be difficult. Example for a Lincoln Cent: OBVERSE 1959Dlincoln_27MAY2024 REVERSE 1959DlincolnREV_27MAY2024 ADDITIONAL SHOTS 1959Dlincoln2_27MAY2024 (I know it's a second obverse shot by the name) 1959DlincolnREV2_27MAY2024 (again easy to see what it is by the name, a second shot of the reverse) If I have multiple 1959D's, I add an upper case B (or C, D, etc.) like this: 1959DlincolnB_27MAY2024 1959DlincolnB2_27MAY2024 1959DlincolnBrev_27MAY2024 1959DlincolnBrev2_27MAY2024 This system is bullet proof for finding files too. If I want to see all the 1959D's I have, I just search 1959D in windows explorer. I also NEVER have a duplicate file name. Edited by BadThad
05/27/2024 11:34 pm
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Valued Member
United States
433 Posts |
I go by:
County
KM#
Description (OK, a bit casual...)
ID if silver, or gold
Type of strike (Proof, Unc, etc. But not grade
Sequence # if duplicates
Aaaannnnd... My system fell apart with the KM numbers not being updated, so the N# from Numista.... so basically somewhat of a mess. But I maintain a database from Numista and download it for inventory.
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21593 Posts |
I write all of the info relating to the coin written on the 2x2 that houses the coin.
Includes acquisition date, brief description and price paid
Then I photograph the lot and put pics in a standard photo album.
Each coin photograph automatically becomes self descriptive of the coin, -
no extra naming convention needed.
Coins and pics arranged in date order, from when they were struck, covering the period of the whole of numismatics over 2,600 years.
A few of the most valuable coins are stored separately in a small well hidden safe. Photo reference very useful in this regard.
If I need to re arrange the collection from time to time, all of the information relating to the coin moves with it.
This system does not lend itself well to the inclusion of slabbed coins, (cannot write a full description on the slab), so I therefore I do not buy slabbed coins. I am obliged to grade accurately, with such a system.
Time tested method of storage and display of about 1,500 coins collected over a period of nearly 60 years.
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Valued Member
United States
103 Posts |
Thanks. All good advice but hard to decide on what fits individual style and needs especially just beginning. I'm just getting started to really evaluate and organize a relatively small collection, mostly acquired from family members 40 - 50 years ago. Long ago I put the "more valuable" ( going by the Red Book) coins in cardboard 2x2s and the rest were left in tubes. Many mistakes were made and my definition of "valuable" has changed greatly. I'm changing over to capsules and new 2x2s for everyone. For now I have one master list but can see that's going to need upgrading. So much to learn but it's fun and interesting. Thanks again. |
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Valued Member
United States
289 Posts |
I may be elementary ... Type, year, mintmark. While I may have several examples of a particular coin, the worst thing I have to do is fondle coins and look for my precise example. I get so much enjoyment from looking at my collection NOT just having it. :)
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Valued Member
United States
107 Posts |
I use my camera model number, the camera generates a photo ID number, during photo editing another unique number is auto created, then followed by the coin date - MM and denomination - grade - obverse or reverse.
Example:
Cam# Gen#1 Auto gen#2 Date Den. Grade
T7i 0001 0001 1859 1c AU+ obv.
T7i 0002 0002 1859 1c AU+ rev.
After photo editing I import the coin to Coin Manage(CM), the software generates its own ID number and copies the JPEG. I then export each individual JPEG to a backup Folder named Sets
Sets 1c
1. Indian
2. Wheats
Etc.
This works well for me.
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Moderator
 United States
64158 Posts |
I use a similar naming convention like Thad, but with a twist for my Lincoln cents for example I start with date-Mint then abbreviated coin type, abbreviated metal content, and strike type (if it is a proof or BU coin). Like this: a 1948-D Lincoln Cent would get a name like this? 1948-D LWC Cu BU. The reverse image simply gets a '1' at the end of the file name. 1948-D LWC Cu BU1 any additional images for the same coin will get a 2,3,etc... Jefferson nickels will get a 'JN' Roosevelt dimes are 'RD' Washington quarters are 'WQ' and so on |
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Moderator
Australia
16181 Posts |
My formula for coin pics: - my initials. - my unique four or five digit coin database number - a brief text description of what the coin is or why I took the picture Example: here is SWA 5350 JulianII.jpg:  And here is SWA 13831 StraitsTooled.jpg:  Don't say "infinitely" when you mean "very"; otherwise, you'll have no word left when you want to talk about something really infinite. - C. S. Lewis
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Valued Member
United States
107 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5716 Posts |
I name it by year_mintmark_series_denomination (if needed)_side, if a close up detail is needed, I would add CU1, CU2...
Example: 1945_P_MercuryDime_Obv, 1945_S_MercuryDime_Rev and 1945_S_MercuryDime_Rev_CU1
Edited by macmercury
02/14/2025 3:51 pm
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Replies: 9 / Views: 601 |
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Posted 05/28/2024 02:19 am
