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Details Grades: How Big Can A Verdigris Or Carbon (Sulfur) Spot Really Be?

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Brandmeister's Avatar
United States
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 Posted 01/26/2025  2:50 pm Show Profile   Check Brandmeister's eBay Listings Bookmark this topic Add Brandmeister to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
Recently, I have started noticing slabbed coins with straight grades that have visible black spots. Although the common term seems to be carbon spot, I believe these are actually sulfur? How big can such a spot be before a coin grades Details at a TPG?

Also, I thought that verdigris was a big no-no for slabbing. But I have seen other slabbed coins with straight grades that have visible aqua green spots of meaningful size.

The PCGS grading videos use exaggerated examples to make their points about Details grade. Where is the threshold for spots and verdigris. If practice differs than theory, I would be interested to know where the practical cutoff really stands.
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Errers and Varietys's Avatar
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 Posted 01/26/2025  8:34 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Errers and Varietys to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Very interesting topic.
Errers and Varietys.
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sel_69l's Avatar
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 Posted 01/26/2025  9:30 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add sel_69l to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
'Carbon' spots are really small localized corrosion spots.
Their presence always detract form value.

When a third party examiner inspects a coin, under ideal lighting conditions under 10X magnification, it is hand held

After being given a grade designation the coin should be gently cleaned
by rinsing with distilled water, given a quick acetone bath to remove all surface contaminants especially skin oils that may have accumulated during the examination
before being enclosed in a slab

A most collectors would logically conclude, I also think this never happens,
but this may be a reason why a coin may develop carbon spots after being enclosed in the slab.

Suggestion: - It may be worth asking and paying an extra fee to the TPG to clean the coin before enclosing in the slab.

Some encased mint products also suffer in a similar way.

Always disappointing when this happens.
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jbuck's Avatar
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 Posted 01/27/2025  10:13 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I have a feeling the threshold is going to be something left to the grader's discretion.

A good reason to never buy a slab sight unseen, even if that was the original goal of having a coin professionally graded.
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Brandmeister's Avatar
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 Posted 01/27/2025  11:03 am  Show Profile   Check Brandmeister's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Brandmeister to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
but this may be a reason why a coin may develop carbon spots after being enclosed in the slab.

I guess that's a separate question. Were some of the coins slabbed with spots and stains. Did others develop spots, stains, verdigris as a result of mishandling at the TPG?
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jbuck's Avatar
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 Posted 01/27/2025  11:19 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Something insignificant at the time could have grown to be more noticeable. Slabs are not completely air tight, so storage in an unstable environment is a possibility to consider.
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Brandmeister's Avatar
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 Posted 01/27/2025  4:04 pm  Show Profile   Check Brandmeister's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Brandmeister to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Well, let's put a coin to the question. I finally got this in the mail today. Although this rare nickel is what prompted my question, I think it's worth understanding in the general case what stains and spots will result in Details grade.








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Zurie's Avatar
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 Posted 01/27/2025  4:12 pm  Show Profile   Check Zurie's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Zurie to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I consider verdigris more superficial and a milder form of corrosion. These are deeper corrosion spots, possibly starting from verdigris that has been mostly neutralized. I think this would definitely be a details coin from the size and number of corrosion spots.

Nice DDO, though!
Edited by Zurie
01/27/2025 4:15 pm
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Brandmeister's Avatar
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 Posted 01/27/2025  4:39 pm  Show Profile   Check Brandmeister's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Brandmeister to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Would PCGS restoration services have any options for this situation?
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DOCC's Avatar
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 Posted 01/27/2025  5:30 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DOCC to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
They would discolor the area if removed - and removal is not always possible. Personally I do not believe PCGS would attempt - others may have a different opinion.
I swing a metal detector and have a knack for finding dirty old coins.
Dirt coin restoration projects - https://www.prodetecting.com/restorations
Dirt coin restoration blog - https://www.prodetecting.com/blog/ccaw
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Pacificoin's Avatar
Canada
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 Posted 01/27/2025  6:16 pm  Show Profile   Check Pacificoin's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Pacificoin to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Try restoring it yourself.
PCGS all said .well over a hundred
with zero guarantees.
IMHO not salvageable spots appear to
be in the metal in a few spots .
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BadThad's Avatar
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 Posted 01/27/2025  6:38 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
In my experience there are no hard and fast criteria. Don't look at it from the raw coin perspective, they don't - look at it from the perspective "do I want this coin in our slab"? Every coin is different and the threshold for bagging is too.

I've seen many coins with verdigris inside slabs. Like everyone else, I hate that they do that but they do. Corrosion is a serious problem that needs to be chemically addressed even if it's just dehydration with acetone. I've seen it so light it would have simply rinsed off with water.....but they left it. SUCKS

Black "carbon spots" are permanent on any coin. If they are removed, they leave behind a spot/stain. I fiddled with this on many coins over the years - don't bother. The end product is worse with an obvious sign of being cleaned. Even the TPG's restoration services usually refuse these, i.e. "not a candidate". Side note - I've even tried carefully burning them off with a soldiering iron tip, which actually works well. But there's still a metallic/stain spot afterwards.

It will never happen for many reasons, but the TPGs should be rinsing every coin with acetone just prior to slabbing. At least blow everything out with clean, compressed air for God's sake. The amount of fuzz, dirt, threads, skin, etc. they get inside the slabs is nasty.
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BadThad's Avatar
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 Posted 01/27/2025  6:53 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Well, let's put a coin to the question. I finally got this in the mail today.


Those black spots are actually cupric oxide, the terminal state of the corrosion process. It's very strongly part of the surface, metal has pulled up and fully oxidized. With nickels the black also contains other oxidized metals as part of the matrix, i.e. silver, manganese, other metal impurities. Together they form a diamond-like, tough matrix of corroded crapola generally best left alone.

Your nickel should grade by any TPG. I've seen many that look like yours or even worse in slabs. Prior to submission, I would soak it in deionized water for an hour or two, then xylene for 10 minutes, then rinse with acetone and put it in a holder for shipment. I see some dust and organic material above UNUM - I'm betting that all comes right off.

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Edited by BadThad
01/27/2025 6:55 pm
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Brandmeister's Avatar
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 Posted 01/27/2025  10:25 pm  Show Profile   Check Brandmeister's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Brandmeister to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Don't look at it from the raw coin perspective, they don't - look at it from the perspective "do I want this coin in our slab"? Every coin is different and the threshold for bagging is too.

I had rather suspected that after seeing how lenient they are about specific rare coins. For example, a 1942/1 overdate dime, or some of the mid-1960s full steps nickels. We often discuss on these forums that the line is arbitrary, but I think often we don't discuss enough why the line can be inconsistent. For example, I have often wondered if the firms doing $10000+ in grading fees per year might get more flexibility than some random n00b. It definitely seems clear that certain truly desirable rare coins like the 1939 Doubled Monticello get generous treatment in both grade and overlooking flaws.

I don't know if this particular variety is prestigious enough to move the needle. I do know that 1942 FS-101 is rare in high grades. I don't know if this coin would grade mint state. Is is definitely a candidate for full steps, especially compared to the other MS-FS 1942 FS-101 in TrueView.

All things considered, I would be inclined to roll the dice on this particular coin, as the upside is strong.

I gather that your option (Thad) is to not meddle with the corrosion spots. What about that aqua verdigris on the U? And would there be any downside to an overnight soak in pure acetone?
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BadThad's Avatar
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 Posted 01/27/2025  11:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
I gather that your option (Thad) is to not meddle with the corrosion spots. What about that aqua verdigris on the U? And would there be any downside to an overnight soak in pure acetone?


Those tiny green specs might come off with water and a toothpick. Like I said, soak for an hour in water and, at the end, tap around on that green and see if it comes off. After that, xylene then acetone.
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Brandmeister's Avatar
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 Posted 01/27/2025  11:37 pm  Show Profile   Check Brandmeister's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Brandmeister to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Got it, thanks.
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