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Pillar of the Community
4628 Posts |
I agree with all the above, except anyone who would waste time grading a fake. UNC fake, VF fake, Fair fake its all still a fake.
Fake - the horizontal streaks.
Weak striking and the K in KG is missing the bottom left stem.
A good fake though and its 2 grams too light, a coin in F - Vf would be 0.5 of a gram lighter at most.
Some Chinese faking operations, have sanders, grinders and drums which rattle newly made blanks around to simulate wear.
I would wager money that its not made out of silver either.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
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Pillar of the Community
United Kingdom
2061 Posts |
Quote:
except anyone who would waste time grading a fake. UNC fake, VF fake, Fair fake its all still a fake. I don't agree with Princetane. Grading is a skill which can (and should) be learned by all numismatists. I find it enjoyable if sometimes very challenging. Apart from the pleasure, there is the added benefit that it can help you make better purchases. There is no harm in practising on fakes and I don't think it's wasted time. Also, if you often see slabbed coins, you'll soon learn which are overgraded. I don't like slabbed coins and I mentally mark them down a grade if I see them in auction, ie, I treat a slabbed EF as real VF, a a slabbed VF as real F and I've noticed that several of the London auctioneers give both the slabbed grade and what they feel the real grade is.
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Pillar of the Community
4628 Posts |
Pertinax - of course
But I would flex my skills on real coins.
If we need to be technical - that fake would grade bare VF if it was real.
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New Member
Australia
6 Posts |
I just read this topic and I am interested in the same opinion about this crown from 1937 (photos) I need an idea of how good it is for selling   |
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Formerly nancyc
Australia
5384 Posts |
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I just read this topic and I am interested in the same opinion about this crown from 1937 (photos) I need an idea of how good it is for selling Hi predecimalcoll, It would be in your best interests to start a new topic for your coin. That way all responses for your query will be separate.
life is a mystery to be lived not a problem to be solved
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New Member
Australia
1 Posts |
This information may help.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1427 Posts |
This post is over a year old...
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Moderator
 United States
157664 Posts |
AIDAB,  to the Community! |
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Pillar of the Community
4628 Posts |
Think I just bought a real one!!!   Going by the check list, it sails past and the dealer is very reputable and would refund my money in a heartbeat if it wasn't. Edited by Princetane
05/14/2021 06:31 am
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Pillar of the Community
Australia
852 Posts |
Yes, that is a genuine '38 crown, no issues such as cleaning/hairlines and borderline Unc (would grade AU58 at the minimum) and is better than most Unc examples as the orb is well struck and undamaged. It is from the most common die pair (one pair made about 90% of all the '38 crowns with the other 4 being quite scarce).
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Moderator
United States
157664 Posts |
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Think I just bought a real one!!! Very nice! 
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Pillar of the Community
Australia
998 Posts |
Yes,nice Coin.
Also on some of the latest fakes the Kings mouth is open/ajar more than the genuine egs.and some of the detail in the hair is vague.
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Pillar of the Community
Australia
580 Posts |
Probably best to start a new thread.
Watch your top knot
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Pillar of the Community
4628 Posts |
I thought of that, but one coin is not enough to start a whole new thread and I thought it may be good to show mine next to the fake one, so anyone else buying 1938 or 1937 crowns can get some idea of what to expect.
We could make this a Crown sticky, anyone with an Australian crown should show it on this thread!
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Moderator
United States
157664 Posts |
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I thought it may be good to show mine next to the fake one, so anyone else buying 1938 or 1937 crowns can get some idea of what to expect. I agree. It is always a good idea to have at least one or more examples of an authentic item when discussing authenticity. 
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Posted 04/26/2020 06:48 am
