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15757 Posts |
I had to upgrade from my 7 year old iPhone 7+ because the iOS could not accommodate some new apps. I'm really regretting getting a 15 Pro Plus from the coin photography standpoint, although I really like it for other reasons. The main issue I have is that the macro lens has a focusing distance from a few millimeters* to about an inch or two for best results. However, it's virtually impossible to evenly illuminate a coin with the phone positioned over it. I now have an impressive array of small lights and lamps and various thickness boxes and contraptions that I use to overcome this illumination obstacle. With some coins I can get impressive results, but it's a real struggle that takes a long time for each coin. Also, if you want to use the timer in macro mode, the phone takes a burst of 10 pictures. After a couple hundred coins, I've gone back to my 7+. Perhaps someone who has overcome these obstacles can shed light on how to use this hateful device. Because everyone will want pictures, here is an example. Bhutan 25 Chetrums 1975: iPhone 7+ - 1 minute time invested  Bhutan 25 Chetrums 1975: iPhone 15 Pro+ - at least 5 minutes and much hair pulling invested  *Note: the macro capabilities are actually quite impressive, and this phone could be used as a low-power microscope. The images of the die cracks on this 1883 Shield nickel are as taken. They are not cropped - only resized for posting. US 5 Cents 1883 Shield crack (iPhone 15 Pro+)    Inordinately fascinated by bits of metal with strange markings and figures
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
8649 Posts |
Can't help with the phone but the pics look good. Except the 2nd set.
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157717 Posts |
Maybe try a ring light for the phone like here... http://goccf.com/t/422658My moto edge has the same issue with macro photos. I take them in the sunlight and hold a black mouse pad over the top to help "mask" the shadow cast by the phone. All my light comes from the sides. I am not the best at it, but it works for me I guess. 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4077 Posts |
I don't have any great advice except to keep trying different things to figure out how to best get good coin photos from that particular phone.
That said, the best coin photos I have gotten were from my old Canon A530 point and shoot camera. My 7070 pictures, for example, remain the originals taken with that camera. I've tried multiple times with subsequent, on paper better, cameras, and never gotten photos I am satisfied with.
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Bedrock of the Community
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15757 Posts |
KenKat, I've been using my phone because it's so convenient. I have a protocol that works pretty well for most coins. Downloading the pics to my computer is a snap. I've got the lighting issues somewhat resolved. However, coin photos taken with the i15 have a definite "fish eye" appearance - coins appear somewhat hemispherical. I don't think that there is any way to avoid that, as it is an inherent issue with short focal length lenses. Here are a few pics. Bhutan 5 Chetrums 1975 - iPhone 7+  The following were taken with my i15: Bhutan 5 Chetrums 1975  Prince Edward Island 1 Cent 1871 adjusted  Mexico 1 Peso 1910  New Brunswick Half Penny Token 1843  Germany Bonn 10 Pfennigs 1920  Ludenscheid 10 Pfennigs 1918 
Inordinately fascinated by bits of metal with strange markings and figures
Edited by Hondo Boguss 01/31/2025 05:07 am
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157717 Posts |
I have to say, looking good! 
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Bedrock of the Community
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15757 Posts |
Ok, I've got it figured out!!! Macro must be turned off and phone at least 7.5" above coin. Macro is the default setting and must be turned off by clicking the little flower. Next, position the phone on a stable platform overlooking the coin - minimum 7.5". I had been trying to use the same box as with my i7+, but it is 5". The i15 will not focus at that distance. I'm quite satisfied with the results. Here are a few examples: Bhutan 25 Chetrums 1975  Bhutan 25 Chhertum 1979  US 50 Cents 1995: 50th Anniversary of World War II  US 50 Cents 1992-S Columbus Voyage - 500th Anniversary  San Marino 5 Euro 2007: Equal Opportunity  Honduras 2 Centavos 1974  China 1 Fen 1937 (new photo) 
Inordinately fascinated by bits of metal with strange markings and figures
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2074 Posts |
Quote: Macro must be turned off and phone at least 7.5" above coin. That's interesting! I'll have to try that. I just upgraded from an iPhone 8 to a 16 Pro. The new camera is incredible, but I'm also having trouble with the lighting. I've been placing my phone only a couple inches above the coin and that captures the most detail, but then the lighting can be tricky. I'll try your suggestion. What level of zoom do you use from that distance, if any?
Edited by CollegeBarbers 02/07/2025 11:07 am
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15757 Posts |
CollegeBarbers, it took me almost two months to figure this out. Once you move the phone up away from the coin, lighting is no longer the problem it was. Quote: What level of zoom do you use from that distance, if any? I try to keep it below 5X - enough so that the coin fills the frame but also leave some wiggle room for rotating the image. At higher magnification, the images have strange squiggly pixilation. This is a problem with very small coins, so with those I go back to the macro lens up close. I put the phone on this contrivance - a power cube box with a carpenter's pencil taped to it. Lighting is still an issue, of course. Having the phone at this slight angle does help, however. I'm using a Voncerus LED goose neck lamp which is really nice - https://www.amazon.com/Voncerus-Eye...B5ZBT42?th=1 
Inordinately fascinated by bits of metal with strange markings and figures
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2074 Posts |
Good to know, I will give that a try! I've been experimenting and found that coins with reflective prooflike surfaces from modern mint sets are the most challenging (I haven't tried regular proof coins yet). Circulated coins are definitely easier. Quote: I'm using a Voncerus LED goose neck lamp which is really nice Great, thank you! I'll order one. Right now I use two Jansjo lights and a table lamp with an incandescent bulb. Do you use more than one Voncerus lamp? What color mode and brightness setting do you use? Do you diffuse the light?
Edited by CollegeBarbers 02/07/2025 3:22 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
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15757 Posts |
I just use one Voncerus - that's all you need. It has an integral diffuser, so you don't need to wrap it with a paper towel or piece of milk carton (like I've done with my other lights). I set it on the "normal" light - not the warm and not the "blue". It's set at max bright or in the upper range but I change it as needed. But for each, it doesn't seem to matter that much - the phone automatically corrects for both. There are times when I wish it wouldn't, but haven't figured out the proper settings for that. Proofs (especially silver) and other highly reflective coins (nickel-plated) are a real challenge. You're trying to take a picture of a mirror without getting a reflection of your phone. Also sometimes the coins appear black. Playing with the light angle and the phone angle often lets you get a good image. I also will hold a piece of white or black paper above the coin so that the reflection is lighter or darker as desired.
Inordinately fascinated by bits of metal with strange markings and figures
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2074 Posts |
That makes sense, thank you! I ordered one. How do you ordinarily position the light relative to your phone and the coin? Quote: Also sometimes the coins appear black. I'm experiencing the same problem with some reflective coins. Quote: Playing with the light angle and the phone angle often lets you get a good image. I also will hold a piece of white or black paper above the coin so that the reflection is lighter or darker as desired. Those are good ideas! I'll try them. I have a lot of recent mint and proof sets to crack for albums, so I'll be taking plenty of photos to take of those reflective coins.
Edited by CollegeBarbers 02/08/2025 2:07 pm
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Pillar of the Community
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1289 Posts |
Great photos, Hondo. The proofs are especially nice. 
" Even a clock that's stopped is right twice a day. "
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Bedrock of the Community
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15757 Posts |
Thank you, cptbilly!
Inordinately fascinated by bits of metal with strange markings and figures
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Bedrock of the Community
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15757 Posts |
CollegeBarbers, I have the light at the same level as my phone and perpendicular to the coin and phone. It's generally about 5" away from the phone, so it's about a 30 degree angle. I do move it back and forth or rotate it to get the picture to be the best representation of the coin. When you get pictures of the liberated coins please post them and tell us about your protocol.
Inordinately fascinated by bits of metal with strange markings and figures
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2074 Posts |
I think I'm following you. I'll give it a try when it arrives and post my results.
What background do you use? I have an 18% gray card that I use, although I've also read black is better.
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